Text over block color reads AASLH Onsite Workshop Collections Camp Textiles. The block of green blocks most of the background image, but on the top and bottom of the block are sunlit straw and other natural fiber.

Workshop: Collections Camp: Textiles

Learn how to be a better steward of your textile collection in this two day workshop. Expert presenter Karen DePauw will focus on the care and conservation of textiles in museum collections.

Outcomes

As a result of this workshop, participants should:

  • Have a general knowledge of the basic types of costumes and textiles common in American museum collections.
  • Have a general knowledge of the particular needs of costume and textile collections including proper identification, handling, and basic conservation.
  • Be familiar with some of the current issues and trends in the preservation of costume and textile collections.
  • Explore the variety of issues related to exhibiting and storing costume and textile collections.
  • Be familiar with simple conservation procedures that are safe to perform on their costume and textile collections.
  • Be aware of when they should call a professional conservator for problems with their costume and textile collections.

Details

FORMAT: On-site group workshop

LENGTH: Two days

DATE: April 1-2, 2019

LOCATION: Connecticut Historical Society, Hartford, CT

MATERIALS: Workshop materials will be provided upon registration and in-person at the event.

COST: $300 AASLH members/$425 nonmembers

** Save $40 when you register by March 1, 2019 and use promo code EARLYBIRD19 at checkout! **

REGISTER HERE

Who Should Attend This Workshop

This workshop is intended for experienced staff and volunteers with responsibility for costume and textile collections.

About the Faculty:

As the coordinator of Local History Services at the Indiana Historical Society, Karen DePauw works with small museums and heritage organizations throughout the state.  She serves as a coach for Heritage Support Grant applicants, administers the traveling exhibits program, and offers consultations and workshops on various topics regarding collections care.  Karen earned a BA in history and an MS in historic costumes and textile conservation, knowledge she has drawn upon for two publications: The Care and Display of Historic Clothing in 2017 with Rowman and Littlefield Publishers and The House of Worth: Fashion Sketches 1916-1918 in 2015 with Dover Publications.  Karen currently serves on the board of the Association of Indiana Museums and as a member of the American Association for State and Local History Field Services Alliance, and an active member of the Costume Society of America. She previously worked with the costume and textile collection at the Connecticut Historical Society and has served as a costume consultant and dresser for the Litchfield Historical Society.


Tagging YSL + Halston: What Museums Can Learn from Hashtags

In the spring of 2014, I responded to a call for book proposals for the AASLH series at Rowman & Littlefield. I’d worked for three years at the Quilt Index, an online archive of—you guessed it—quilts, and since receiving my Ph.D. in 2011, I’ve taught courses in digital museum studies at a couple different universities, so I had a lot to say about textile and fashion collections.

Two years later, Textile Collections: Preservation, Access, Curation, and Interpretation in a Digital Age covers a lot of territory—from how digital collections foster preservation to how artificial intelligence is improving the tagging of textile collections online to how the social web is transforming curatorial practice.

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The social aspect was, for me, the most fun to research and write, and I hope it’s fun to read as well. With users on phones snapping and posting images from runway shows long before the clothes will ever appear in stores, the world of fashion is increasingly digital and fast-paced. As I note in the book, museum professionals can learn a lot from how laypeople post about fashion exhibitions and collections.

Academic discourse on fashion—the sometimes-arcane works of couturiers—can be baffling to laypeople. While historians of costume think and talk about dress using critical theory and disciplinary jargon, many of those outside the academy with a love of fashion have their own way of talking about their favorite pieces and designers online, perhaps most importantly their use of hashtags, the focus of this case study.

As on Twitter, Instagram, and other image-based social sites, Tumblr users provide commentary through the use of hashtags. Hashtags allow other users to search and find images and text-based posts, as well as to make observations or to annotate, explain, or clarify the posted image. For those with an interest in historic costume, hashtags often refer to designers or periods, for example #ysl (Yves Saint Laurent) or #1970s, or to the locations and celebrities who made the fashions famous, such as #studio54 and #jerryhall.

3.4 halston and ysl pajama sets
Halston and Yves Saint Laurent pajama sets, 1970s, Yves Saint Laurent + Halston: Fashioning the 70s, The Museum at FIT

Perhaps one of the most interesting things about how this nomenclature of tagging is evolving is that many of the most popular tags do not pertain to the object itself, but to the day on which it was posted, as in #museummonday or #tbt (throwback Thursday), or to the everyday changes that a designer faces, such as #designerproblems. Related to the #museummonday hashtag is the practice of posting to Tumblr photographs of museum exhibitions taken by the user in the brick and mortar world.

An analysis of posts made on Tumblr in response to visits to the Fashion Institute of Technology Museum’s exhibition Yves Saint Laurent + Halston: Fashioning the 70s reveals rich and consistent use of tagging, allowing other users to follow along with the exhibition. Pick up a copy of Textile Collections to learn how analyzing user-applied hashtags about fashion and comparing them to those words used in the headings of museum exhibit labels, or to the hashtags used by the museum’s own in-house social media campaign, can be a very enlightening exercise for museum professionals.

Ultimately, understanding how laypeople talk about and categorize high fashion (with more of an emphasis on particular colors and fabrics and on the personalities who wore the clothes) can lead to more visitor-friendly exhibit development and museum learning programs.

Adapted from Amanda Grace Sikarskie, Textile Collections: Preservation, Access, Curation, and Interpretation in a Digital Age (Rowman & Littlefield, 2016).

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Amanda Sikarskie is Visiting Assistant Professor at Kendall College of Art & Design of Ferris State University in Grand Rapids, Michigan.

She is the author of the recent book with AASLH: Textile Collections: Preservation, Access, Curation, and Interpretation in a Digital Age. This book can be purchased through Rowman & Littlefield Publishers. AASLH members get 20% all books in the AASLH Series.